December 8th - Vietnam to Chiang Mai, Thailand

I’ll start off the day with another video of the traffic in case you didn’t get enough from the other one.

This is the way you cross the streets in Ha Noi and we crossed hundreds of them. The idea is to step out with confidence and the vehicles will go around you. We tried but I’m pretty sure we stepped out with more fear and trepidation than confidence. 

This morning we will take in as much more of Hanoi as we can before departing for Chiang Mai, Thailand.

We woke to the sound of hundreds of children singing and a loud speaker. I thought it was a parade on the street down below. It was just the normal school day activities at the primary school next door. They start off every morning with exercises. Singing and games that last for over an hour. It was a beautiful, chaotic soundscape of squeals, songs, and excited stories, like a festival of pure energy, a vibrant mix of laughter, excited chatter, traditional songs, games, all forming a joyful, bustling symphony

This was taken after half of the students left to go to class

We walked back to the corner bakery for breakfast this morning and split a bowl of yogurt and fruit with an espresso croissant. The yogurt and fruit bowl was fresh and delicious 

but the croissant had been frozen and was cold and soggy, not crisp and flaky as a croissant should be. The espresso pastry cream in the center was good though. It was topped with a piece of honeycomb. 

The Temple of Literature is about the last thing on Juniper’s list of things-to-do so that is the plan for the remaining time here. It’s about a 20 minute walk. 

The Note Coffee in Hanoi, Vietnam, is a one-of-a-kind café covered in colorful sticky notes left by visitors from around the world.

Traditional Vietnamese hat

Temple of Literature

Văn Miếu - Quốc Từ Giám, a special national heritage site. This is one of the oldest and most significant building complexes in Hanoi and among the largest Confucian vestiges in Vietnam. The Văn Miếu - Quốc Tử Giám today is a place to praise the Vietnamese traditional respect for teachers and learning.

Long Citadel in 1070 CE under King Lý Thánh Tông (1054-1072 CE) and dedicated to Confucius and his principal disciples. Confucius (551-479 BCE) established the set of philosophical and ethical teachings known as Confucianism. High dignitaries attached to the royal court came here in spring and autumn to make offerings in honour of Confucius.

CE" after a date means "Common Era," a secular way to mark years that correspond exactly to the A.D. (Anno Domini) system, just without the explicit religious reference to Christ's birth. It's used alongside "BCE" (Before Common Era) for years before year 1, offering a nondenominational alternative to BC (before Christ). It is still based on the estimated birth of Jesus so why not use BC/AD???

The Quốc Tử Giám (School for the Sons of the Nation) was built behind the Văn Miếu in 1076 under King Lý Nhân Tông (1072-1128 CE) to educate children of the royal family and the mandarin aristocracy (imperial officials). Later, bright sons of ordinary families were permitted to take up studies here. Over more than 700 years of operation (1076-1802 CE), thousands of men were educated here before going on to contribute to the development of the country.

The Quốc Tử Giám was the first and largest centre of education and training in Vietnam, and its continuing protection as national heritage reflects Vietnamese respect for higher learning and scholarship.

Visitors enter the complex through the Cổng Văn Miếu (Great Portico), a two-storey brick structure with eight roofs and three doors. Friezes to the right and left of the central arch show an ascending dragon symbolizing endeavour and success at study and a tiger descending from a mountain symbolizing the strength and power of intellect, here bringing help for humanity.

Raking up the leaves with a bamboo rake

And picking them up in a basket

The complex comprises five walled courtyards as well as the Văn Lake and the Giám Garden, in all covering 54,331 square metres. The first two courtyards have formal planting and water features, while the three other courtyards contain buildings and other important vestiges.

The first lesson for students to learn is how to behave respectfully. There is much to be said for that. Acquiring knowledge comes later, with the final goal of becoming both virtuous and talented.

Similar to other walled courtyards, the garden in Nhập Đạo is symmetrically designed along a central axis. The central path used to be for the king and high ranking mandarins, while the two side paths were for the students and common people. The courtyard contains two ponds that, together with the tree planting, give the courtyard a spacious appearance.

The Nhập Đạo courtyard is connected to the next courtyard by three gates, or doors. At the centre is Đại Trung Môn (Great Middle Gate) while to the left is Thành Đức (Accomplished Virtue) and to the right Đạt Tài (Attained Talent).

Construction of the stone stelae in this third courtyard began in 1484 under King Lê Thánh Tông (1442-1497 CE). They are a valuable historical resource for the study of philosophy history, culture, education, society and sculpture in Vietnam. The stelae were inscribed on UNESCO's Memory of the World Register in 2011.

Each stele is a work of art, having been created by the best scholars, craftsmen and calligraphers of the era. The first sentence of the text in large characters indicates the year of the examination. The main section records the dates of reigning kings, the names and place of birth of the graduates, the names and the titles of the text composer, editor and calligrapher and the time when the stele was erected. The motifs on the stelae are relatively diverse and reflect the development of artistic styles over time. The decoration on later stelae is more elaborate and includes sun, moon, cloud, dragons, phoenixes, human figures, flowers, birds and animals.

In the 1960s, during the war, the stelae were buried in sand and surrounded by a thick concrete wall to protect them from the danger of aerial bombardment.

The turtles symbolize wisdom, longevity, and national endurance. 

The bell at Hanoi's Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu-Quốc Tử Giám) is a significant bronze bell, housed in the Bell Tower, traditionally rung for important occasions or when high-ranking visitors arrived, symbolizing power and respect, and featuring intricate dragon and phoenix carvings.

Statue of the prestigious director of the Quốc Tử Giám, Chu Văn An (1292-1370 CE)

Below are the three kings who contributed most to the school and the development of Confucian education in Vietnam. 

LÊ THÁNH TÔNG

(1442-1497)

His given name is Hạo, his pen-name is Tư Thành. He was the fourth son of King Lê Thái Tông. He was the king for 37 years (1460-1497). He was a clear-sighted, decisive king. He was also both a talented scholar and a warrior.

LÝ NHÂN TÔNG 

(1066 - 1128) 

His given name was CànĐức. He was the first son of King Ly Thánh Tông and Queen Ỷ Lan. At the age of seven he became king and ruled for the next 56 years (1072 - 1128). He was a brilliant, humanitarian, knowledgeable king. He was also good at music, composition, and military.

LÝ THÁNH TÔNG 

(1023-1072)

He was a wise and charitable king, set forth wise directions to build a powerful country such as decreasing punishments, attaching much importance to farming, developing education, consolidating and strengthening the national defense from the north to the south.

Structure of the temple

Setting up for a talk about this carving. 

I’m sure there is quite a story carved into this relief sculpture. 

Temple entrances are often raised walls (or gateways/platforms) to signify a sacred transition from the mundane world to a holy space, creating a sense of grandeur, defining boundaries, controlling access, and symbolizing spiritual separation and ascent to the divine. They are to be stepped over, not on. 

Everywhere we have been so far, we have seen beautiful girls dressed in traditional dress, as well as ancient Vietnamese costumes, being photographed. 

We walked across the street to Giam Garden, which is situated on the western wall of the Temple of Literature, has numerous miniatures as well as an octagonal house, a lake, and ornamental plants. This is the perfect spot to explore, relax and plan engaging cultural events. It was a very pleasant walk around the lake.

Little bamboo huts, with all manner of goods, lined the perimeter of the lake. 

Walking back to the hotel, we passed numerous shops with very unusual products. We think these are natural dies or paint pigments. The building next to it had the raw product in huge bags. 

Juniper wanted to buy some toasted coconut and we didn’t find it on our walk so we asked when we returned to the hotel. She located some in the market but it was almost a mile away and we had to meet our driver to go to the airport in 30 minutes. No problem! I will take. Come on! So off she went to buy coconut. He zipped and zigzagged and said it’s ok, don’t worry! 🤣

And we’re off to Thailand 

The driver said , bye, bye Vietnam! We loved Vietnam and the people and would come back if it didn’t take 24 hours to get here. 

A very modern airport. 

Our plane at the gate 

And yay! Blue skies!!! 

And a sunset as we land!

The first blue sky and sunset we’ve seen since arriving in Asia. I think we’re finally going to have some clear skies. It came with warmer temps though. It was in the 80’s when we landed in Chiang Mai and will be mid-80’s tomorrow. 

Ok this bathroom is interesting 

Juniper is demonstrating how it works. The shower curtain wraps around the toilet keeping it dry. 

You shower in the main portion of the room, getting everything else soaked. ??? You’ll notice the drain to the left of the sink. What man came up with this design?

We walked about 8 minutes to Its Good Kitchen, for dinner. We shared the Thai basil chicken with Teddy bear jasmine rice. 

Most delectable!

Let us find our rest in Thee

Many of us grow up with different images in our minds of the first Christmas. We might picture a starry night, a tumbledown stable, and a tiny infant wrapped in swaddling clothes. But beyond the starry hosts of heaven, we also encounter a multitude of promises Christ came to fulfill, including His promise to us of rest. So take heart if you’re feeling weary this holiday season or overwhelmed by life’s demands. Jesus came to save our souls and invite us into a deeply restful way of life. We can embrace this promise of rest and incorporate it into our Advent

Imagine that baby in a manger over 2,000 years ago. He was promise, wrapped in flesh form — the Wonderful Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, and Prince of Peace swaddled in a manger. Yet, with the fuller picture we have from Scripture, we know Jesus arrived to fulfill many promises, including one of rest for our minds, bodies, and souls. In three decades, this baby would grow up and declare this promise in Matthew 11:28-30: “Come to Me, all you who are weary and burdened, and I will give you rest. Take My yoke upon you and learn from Me, for I am gentle and humble in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. For My yoke is easy and My burden is light.” 

Resting on Christ as our sure foundation, we no longer need to hurry around trying to get everything done and to keep up with society’s expectations. We can rest knowing that Jesus has completed the work of our salvation and gives us everything we need for our lives and work on earth. It all began that night in Bethlehem with an unassuming baby. He came as our Wonderful Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, Prince of Peace—and our promise of rest.

I hope St. Augustine’s great expression becomes our own: “Oh God, our hearts are restless until they rest in you.”