If there is ONE day trip you must take from Hanoi, make sure it is to the serene Vietnamese countryside to an area called Ninh Binh. It was such a nice escape from the insanely hectic city of Hanoi. It’s worth doing, especially if you love nature, mountains, and epic panoramic views.
Here's a peek at our schedule and itinerary during our guided day trip:
- 07:30 AM - Hotel pick-up from Hanoi
- Limousine bus transfer (with a bathroom break)
- Guided visit of Hoa Lu-the ancient capital of Dat Viet (Vietnam in the 13th century)
- Bicycle ride through the countryside
- 12:00 PM - Buffet lunch
- 1 1/2-hour sampan boat tour on the Ngoa Long River in Trang An
- Climbing Vietnam's "Great Wall" at Hang
- Mua
- 4:30-6:30 PM - Transfer back to Hanoi
Our pickup was scheduled for 7:15 so we got up and went over to the bakery to grab something for breakfast on the bus.
The corner where we met the tour bus.
We began our day tour to Ninh Binh with a handy Hanoi pickup from our hotel (well actually we had to run down a couple blocks to meet him as our hotel is on a small street). The views from the bus as we were driven out of the city and into the countryside were a contrast in socio-economic class!
The tour guide (Sunny) regaled us with funny stories and some history of Vietnam as we began the long drive. His real name is Vu, which means rain. There are 6 different tones that can be used to say Vu. Different tones have different meanings. To avoid being called boobs, he goes by Sunny because the tourists don’t want rain. If you don’t use the correct tone when saying thank you, you could be telling someone to shut up. I think I’ll stick to English.
We made a stop for coffee and restrooms just over an hour into the drive. I was quickly reminded that the toilet tissue is by the door when you enter the room and not in the individual stalls. This seemed like a tourist trap to me so I hope they are actually helping the people who are making the products.
The next stop was to pedal our way to the Hoa Lu Temples. We learned more than you ever wanted to know about the former ruling dynasties.
I was taking a picture of Juniper on the road behind me when I dropped my phone. Juniper yelled out “got it mom” and stopped to pick up my phone, all the while the video is recording. It probably won’t be funny to anyone who wasn't there but it is worth documenting for my memories 😁
Women have to have their knees covered so Juniper (and others in our group) had to wear a monk skirt.
Our guide telling us all about arsenic poisoning.
The entrance to the temple has the customary dragon, indicating the King. In the center is the sun, meaning only the king is buried here. If it was the moon, it would be the queen. If it was yin and yang, it would be both.
Next we biked to our buffet lunch.
Temple of Literature: Vietnamese temple dedicated to Confucius
Entrance to Hoa Lu-the ancient capital of Dat Viet
These ancient temples honoring the founders of the Dinh and Le dynasties are two of the oldest and most sacred structures in Hoa Lu. Unusual for Vietnam, the two temples are only a short distance apart. Generally speaking, people have separated the temples and monuments of different dynasties due to conflicting rivalries and beliefs. However, Dinh Bo Linh and General Le Hoan had an uncommonly close relationship.
Dinh Bo Linh, also known as Dinh Tien Hoang, fought and united the 12 warring states of Vietnamese pre-history. Unfortunately, assassins took his life and that of his older son while they were sleeping, ending his reign after only 11 years. Despite another, younger son being next in succession, officials deemed him too young to rule..
To fill the gap in leadership, Bo Linh’s former Military Commander, General Le Hoan, promptly became the Emperor Le Dai Hanh, married the dead king’s widow and founded the early Le Dynasty. This dynasty continued many of Dinh Bo Linh’s reforms and wishes, so in some ways, historians see it as a continuation of the Dinh Dynasty.
There was so much more we were told about the murders and lives of the king and his general and queen but I’m not sure how much was simply legend or actually true so I’ll leave it out.
Dinh Bo Linh, also known as Dinh Tien Hoang, fought and united the 12 warring states of Vietnamese pre-history. Unfortunately, assassins took his life and that of his older son while they were sleeping, ending his reign after only 11 years. Despite another, younger son being next in succession, officials deemed him too young to rule..
To fill the gap in leadership, Bo Linh’s former Military Commander, General Le Hoan, promptly became the Emperor Le Dai Hanh, married the dead king’s widow and founded the early Le Dynasty. This dynasty continued many of Dinh Bo Linh’s reforms and wishes, so in some ways, historians see it as a continuation of the Dinh Dynasty.
There was so much more we were told about the murders and lives of the king and his general and queen but I’m not sure how much was simply legend or actually true so I’ll leave it out.
It is customary to leave offerings and there were some odd things, in my opinion.
Throughout their history, the ancient temples honoring the founders of the Dinh and Le dynasties have suffered damage and destruction due to various wars, floods, typhoons, and possible vandalism by rival clans. Builders originally constructed the temples in the 11th century, and over the years, later dynasties carried out considerable reconstruction—particularly in the late 1600s, and again in the 1700s and 1800s under the Later Lê, Tây Sơn, and Nguyễn Dynasties.
Prayer pagoda
Then it was back in the bus heading to Tam Coc. Bicycles were left at the lunch spot. The Tam Coc Boat tour costs 270,000 ($12) dong per boat (2 ppl max). The trip is 1.5 hrs long and goes through the gorgeous valley, passing under caves and past rice fields. The fun thing about this boat trip is that one of the locals pedals the oars with their feet for the entire ride. They work really
hard but make it look so easy.
Going through the caves was the best!
Back in the bus again, we head to Hang Mua.
Hang Mua is the crown jewel of Ninh Binh. You must climb almost 500 steps to reach the top of the Hang Mua Peak and the views from the top will blow your mind! At the top of what the locals call, “dragon mountain” is a HUGE carved out dragon that is said to be watching over the valley. On the other side is a sweeping panoramic view over the Tam Coc Valley, and the BEST view we saw in all of Vietnam.
Hang Múa and its famous twin pinnacles is one of the top attractions in Ninh Binh province. Climbing approximately 500 stone steps carved into the rock to reach the summit is both a tiring and rewarding experience.
The Hang Múa geographical environment is not much different to the ancient weathered limestone karst mountains and valleys that typify much of northern Ninh Binh. What sets it apart is its height, history, architectural brilliance and spiritual significance. Plus of course, the provided 500 plus “stairway to heaven” which gives access to these antiquities and relatively easy 🤣 access to the breathtaking views from the top of one of the geological giants that typify the area.
Have I mentioned there are almost 500 steps to the top?
About two thirds the way up. you come to a fork in the road. The Hang Múa observation deck on the left hand fork of the stairs is 142m high and 800m wide, renovated and opened for tourism in 2000. However, the natural vantage point for surveying the surrounding countryside dates back to as early as 1226, when it became a strategic asset for tracking and eventually repelling the Mongol invaders of the Yuan (China) dynasty.
Turning left is the higher of the two pinnacles, with a wide viewing platform and at the top of yet another flight of stairs, a long snaking dragon that overlooks and protects the large white marble statue of Guanyin (Quan Am in Vietnam) facing the wilder south west tumble of mountains and lakes. Many consider this Buddhist duo to be welcoming the sunrise and sunset from their lofty perch, and the dragon is known as the “tallest” in Ninh Binh. The spires at the peak of the mountain are similar in architecture to the local pagodas, with pointed tops and tiled arched roofs.
The last little bit was a scramble and crowded, making me nervous on tired, shaky legs.
Looking over at the other side. We had the option of going to the right at one point or to the left (harder but better view). We opted for the better view.
The Saudi Arabian couple coming down were part of our group and “the ones” who kept us waiting all day. There’s always “one” in a group that thinks it’s all about them.
A delicate dragon image at the foot of the stairs welcomes travelers on their journey upwards, but more importantly provides hand holds for stability in climbing and descending.
The stone steps were very steep in places and required using all fours at times. It was a bit disheartening to watch the young ones skip right on up. However, even they were breathing pretty hard at the top. What was even crazier was the way some were dressed: high heels, wedding party in full regalia, flip flops, you name it.
We made it up and back down! Red faces and all.
A handful of communal tables bring a knocking-elbows, reaching across each other, street food energy, but all under air-conditioned comfort. Expect to share those tables with strangers, it’s all part of the experience, even if the only conversation you share is a choral slurping of approval.
The tight kitchen, visible through steamed-up partitions, offers a glimpse into the theatrical assembly of your bowl, with soup ladled from a great height and with daredevil dexterity. A fast-paced service is so efficient it borders on the brusque. This one’s not for hanging around; you'll eat and leave within 20 minutes.
The tight kitchen, visible through steamed-up partitions, offers a glimpse into the theatrical assembly of your bowl, with soup ladled from a great height and with daredevil dexterity. A fast-paced service is so efficient it borders on the brusque. This one’s not for hanging around; you'll eat and leave within 20 minutes.
Standing in the queue
Simply put, a beef noodle soup. The broth's natural, bone-deep sweetness makes it simultaneously refreshing in summer and warming during Hanoi's surprisingly chilly winters. I thought the pho was absolutely amazing! Juniper, who will eat just about anything, didn’t like it. There was a taste that reminded her of one that made her sick during pregnancy, so that did it for her. We hadn’t eaten much at all since we shared the bahn mi for breakfast so I was starving and ate most all of mine.
I found this practice one of the most interesting in old town Hanoi. They cook on the streets and sit on tiny stools to eat. They aren’t licensed to have a business, so if they see the police coming they make you stand so they can grab the stools and hide them leaving you standing there with your food. They also partake in the “sticky handshake”, passing money to the police to overlook their transgression. I’m sure some of the best food is found, literally, on the street.
We hit the night market again after eating. You might want to turn your volume down before clicking on the video below.
I wish I could have gotten a video of how absolutely chaotic the traffic really was but this is a small taste.
It was an exhausting day with highs and lows. The worst part for me was all the crowds. Buses unload people by the hundreds, and we were part of it all. Give me freedom on a hiking trail any day over crowded touristy spots. The best was the incredible scenery, from the bike, the boat and the hike.
"Born to Set His People Free"
So what is freedom in Christ?
Before Jesus died on the cross, God’s people lived under many different ruling systems. Even today, whether it be financially, or the situation we live in, we may not feel completely free. However, the most incredible news is that we are completely free from the law of sin and death.
2 Corinthians 3:17
“Now the Lord is the Spirit and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is freedom.”
If the Holy Spirit lives in you and has been gifted to you through salvation, you are FREE! How incredible is it to know that no matter where you are in life, you are free because you have the Holy Spirit living inside of you.
Galatians 5:1
“It is for freedom that Christ has set us free. Stand firm and do not let yourselves be burdened again by a yoke of slavery.”
You get to choose to walk away from the burden of slavery to sin! We have a choice to completely live in God’s joy, peace, freedom, His favor, and all the blessings God has for us and we don’t have to be burdened by a yoke of slavery! Slavery is too heavy of a burden to bear when we have the option to have freedom in Christ.
Ephesians 3:12
“In Him and through faith in Him, we may approach God with freedom and in confidence.”
Not only do we have freedom in our spirit and in our life, but we also have the freedom to approach God, to have complete confidence in our prayer life and relationship with our Father.
As we look forward to the gift of Christmas, be comforted that no matter what you do, no matter how you have sinned, God is ready to show you the path that He has already put into place. We don’t have to wait in line for restoration. We don’t have to hope that it might one day arrive. God is actively working for His glory in your life, and Advent reminds us that even though we may not fully see what restoration looks like, it is coming.
He has promised, and He will deliver.
My favorite day so far, from my lazy boy 😁 You’re comment about the double chin cracked me up, as well as your dropped phone video 😂
ReplyDeleteScenery was beautiful, caves were awesome, steps were crazy, little tree tunnel on the water was my favorite 😉
I’m with you, get me out of the city, quickly please.
Continue to look forward to the advent part of your post, and am never
disappointed. Love, J
I love the cave and tree tunnel. So many stone steps and steps. You both are not eating enough. Enjoyed this blog and your Advent Journal is just amazing.. Vicki
ReplyDeleteThose steps! Phew. Juniper does not look like she’s enjoying the ascent or descent all that much. Lol I don’t blame her! Tell me about the sky. Is it pollution or just overcast? It looks so strange. Looking at the pictures I can’t help but feel the spiritual darkness there. Your video of the traffic is almost metaphorical for the spiritual condition I sense. People pushing, taking, grabbing for their place in line all to end at the same destination. But the Advent as you mention does show us we can be free of the self efforts to righteousness which can’t achieve their goal anyway. Jesus is the Way, and on this path there is room for all who come by faith in Him. How blessed we are to know Him!
ReplyDeleteJuniper said to tell you no she didn’t not enjoy the ascent or descent. It was more a mental thing than physical. The steps make you feel very unstable on your feet and once you get that into your head, it’s hard to get it out. They’re on a bit of a slope and very uneven in height and width. However, she really liked what you said about the spiritual darkness and the video.
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