December 9th - Day Trip to Chiang Rai, Thailand

We have scheduled a day trip to Chiang Rai for today. Chiang Rai is a city and province in northern Thailand known for its stunning temples, mountainous scenery, and proximity to the Golden Triangle. It is the northernmost  major city in Thailand near the borders of Myanmar and Laos. Founded in 1262, it was the first capital of the Lanna Kingdom before losing the title to Chiang Mai. Key attractions include the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), Rong Suea Ten Temple (the Blue Temple), and the Mae Fah Luang Art and Cultural Park. The area also offers unique cultural experiences, such as hill tribe villages, the Night Bazaar, and local northern Thai cuisine.

It is a three hour drive to Chiang Rai so we stopped along the way. The first “scheduled” stop is the hot springs, however there is a young woman in the group who threw up less than 10 minutes into the trip. Fortunately they had a plastic bag and she was very discreet. The driver stopped at a toilet right away.

We made it to the hot springs. 

Dipping our feet in and I mean literally dipping. If it’s hot enough to boil eggs. It’s too hot for me. We counted to 3 and plunged them in for a photo and right back out!

Baskets of eggs to boil

We were given 20 minutes for this stop, bathroom, coffee, soak your feet or whatever. It was plenty of time. But we have the “one” who thinks it’s all about her and she took 30 minutes, and only returned then because the guide went to get her. 

Bottles of water provided for us. 

And right about here, she threw up again so another toilet stop. 

There’s much discussion about going to the hospital after the third time she threw up. Suspected food poisoning. They have decided to do that so after we visit the White Temple, the guide will drop them off at the hospital. Logistics is an issue out here in the wilds of Thailand. 

Our guide’s name is Poontky (with the umbrella). It means a little basket. 

There is a very long story about the man who designed and built the white temple. I’m going to include it because it’s interesting and he has some valid thoughts, although he is very self-absorbed and misguided.

Wat at Rong Khun is known among foreigners as the White Temple.. It is artistically different from other temples in Thailand. The temple was built by artist, Ajarn Chalermchal Kositpipat, who is well-known thoughout Thailand.

He wanted to build the most beautiful temple in the world and to show the glory of modern Thai Buddhist arts. He, together with more than 80 followers devoted totally their effort and energy to make this structure their life work.

This is the 16th year since the project began and Chalermchai's goal with his life and work is set at a highest level. "I want to be good and valuable to my country. I want to create arts in my own style and to develop Thai Buddhist arts to be accepted internationally. I want people of all nations to come and admire my works, like when they want to visit the Taj Mahal or the Ankor Wat. Therefore, I need to devote all my time to this and also to educate and pass along my vision to at least two consecutive classes of pupils. Maybe in 60 to 90 years after my death will the project be completed."

I want to be the only artist in the world who can create anything with utmost freedom. I do not want to work under anybody's influence or thought processes. No one in the world can order me to do their forbidding, because I do not accept any monetary donations from sources including government officers, politicians or millionaires. Money can give the donors power to influence the takers, much like many artist who work as employees. I, then, need to find fundings to build the temple by myself."

Ajarn Chalermchai talked about the art works that each year needed to be repaired, changed or added-on "My number one goal is to perfect my works. That is why renovations are going on yearly. Regular visitors see changes all the time because I do not set time frames to my works. National Buddhist arts mostly are influenced by other works of art, such as from India. Sri Lanka, Chiang Saen, Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Ratanakosin.

Modern arts cannot avoid to be influenced by the ancient arts. I want to break away from the influence of arts of any periods. That is why I need to commit my life to this project."

We walked into the monastery but aren’t allowed to take pictures inside. Knees and shoulders covered and shoes off. He painted the murals, facing the statue of the Lord Buddha, portraying the coming of the Lord Buddha from the edge of the universe in Nirvana (heaven). “I want people to feel peace and happiness and to envision the kindness of the Lord Buddha towards all beings. The mural in front of the Lord Buddha statue shows the struggle between the Lord Buddha and the Mara (demon). It represents the final conflict of the Lord Buddha's own demon before he obtained enlightenment and freedom from immoral thoughts. Many paintings, in the past, usually depicted this struggle, portraying the demon sitting on an elephant combating with the Lord Buddha. The weapon used varied according to the period at the time from swords, lances, arrows, crossbows to cannons and guns. These weapons and the demon's armies represent the unwholesome thoughts of humans. The Lord Buddha taught us to practice inner meditation that can lead to commonsense and end evil thoughts. This can make us to be good persons with high moral standard and achieve the inner peace like what the Lord Buddha attained."

Questions, concerning the eyes of the demon that have George Bush and Bin Laden inside them, are very popular especially among foreign tourists Ajarn Chalermchai responded. "I want everyone to know that our world is being destroyed by those who craved to build weapons that kill, thereby ruining the environment because nothing is ever enough. They segregate and therefore cannot find peace, I saw the violence and it hurts me and mankind to observe the killing of the innocence by these two powerful individuals. Peaceful people do not want to see the murder of the Muslims and the collapse of the New York Twin Towers. I want to show that eyes, as important organs, should look at each other with kindness and not with hate that can lead to war. I painted, at that time, to caution both George Bush and Bin Laden so that they can look toward a peaceful and happy world, painted Superman and Ultraman to let people know that there really are no heroes in our world. Actually, people need heroes since our morality declines every day. However, no heroes from the movie screen arrive to help the havoc of the Twin Towers. Eventually the world becomes ill, only with the environment but also with the people. People lack moral standards. That is why portray evil people as the demon with mouth opens encircled the entrance of the temple. When people walk out, they will feel either they leave the demon behind that is they have rid themselves from evil spiris and going towards "lokutharadhamma" (the highest level of dhamma, where people will not be reborn, The Thai designs that flow from the eyes, nose and mouth of the demon towards the back wall of the temple change into an angelie carriage that takes the people, who rid themselves from evil deeds, to meet the Lord Buddha at the edge of the universe."

As to the use of the color white, Ajarn Chalermchai wanted to build a temple that is different from other wats (temples) that are golden. He believed that gold is suitable to people who lust for evil deeds. The Lord Buddha represents purity and has escaped from the world to Nirvana. The use of small mirrors throughout the building is a symbol of wisdom (Dhama) of the Lord Buddha that shines throughout the universe Ajarn Chalermchal repeated. "I want to build a heavenly garden (representing happiness for humans to stroll in. I want all visitors of whatever religion to have a feeling of peace, happiness and at the same time get to understand the meaning of Buddhism that can be seen all over the temple whether it's in the architectural, the drawings or the molding works", He gets up early, around 2 a.m., meditates for an hour, and then creates, sculpts, plans for his day and corrects the works of his students.

Having much to do, he claims to be a very happy man at peace, without doing things such as going to restaurants, going out for drinks or singing karaoke. He does not think these activities make him happier, but more confusing, stating

"I've been there, done that, and that time is over."

At Wat Rong Khun there was previously no admission fee charged. Everybody of whatever denomination is welcome to visit Wat Rong Khun. Even the golden toilet, "the most beautiful toilet" is free to enter and to admire. That is one of his rules. Everything is already planned, and he has made sure that there are people: a team of architects, painters, designers and a committee who will continue his work, even after his death. Something must have drastically changed since he made all these proclamations because it’s no longer free to visit the White Temple.

Contrary to what he first pledged, an update from the artist in 2022 mentioned that Chalermchai has found a new love in motorbiking and art is now relegated to the backstage, indicating to me that his “life’s work” was not as important to him as becoming famous for building a huge tourist attraction. 

The golden toilet. 

Unlike the stark white of the temple, this bright golden structure represents material wealth and worldly desires and houses the public restrooms. 

Bridge of the Cycle of Rebirth: Next we crossed over a symbolic bridge representing the cycle of life and the path toward escaping temptation and desire. Here you are supposed to resist the temptations for worldly possessions, so that you have no attachment to the physical world. White represents the purity of Buddha. The sparkling mirror tiles embedded in the temple’s exterior symbolize wisdom and self-reflection.

Reaching hands: The approach to the temple begins with a rather “creepy” display which you are supposed to pass by without temptation. Look for the hundreds of hands reaching upwards at you (you honestly can’t miss it) which represent unbridled greed and suffering

Gate of Heaven: Once you cross the bridge, the gates are guarded by two mythical creatures, Death and Rahu, who decide the fate of souls.

Murals Inside the Temple: Surprisingly, we saw modern pop culture references inside, from superheroes to Star Wars characters and even depictions of global tragedy. These serve to juxtapose the struggle between good and evil in our contemporary world. The murals are also surprisingly colorful, to contrast the stark white exterior. Note that photography is not allowed inside the temple, and I chose to respect that, so I have no photos to share. You’ll have to visit to see for yourself! 😁

The intricate design is filled with allegories about Buddhist teachings and reflections on humanity, good versus evil, and the path to enlightenment.

Wish Leaves

Add your wishes to the silver leaves that hang from the metal trees and the ceiling in the temple complex. These contributions become part of the shrine’s charm and connection to its visitors. For a 30 baht donation you can pick out a charm and write on it, contributing to the donation tree for good luck.

Juniper’s the lion. 

The monkey is eating your money. I’ve always been told not to feed the animals.  

A beautiful, quiet and peaceful area with many waterfalls. 

You can purchase food for the fish. 

Crossing the bridges over the sparkling ponds dotted with koi fish adds a sense of tranquility to your visit. The surrounding water reflects the temple and adds another magical element to the experience.

Gandering at the size of them I would say most people feed them. 

We were told specifically to meet back up at 12:45. The guide made it very clear - 12:45. She even got face to face with the “one” and said 12:45 right here. Was she there at 12:45? No! Or at 12:50 so the guide once again went to find her. 

Since we’ve been delayed and we’re quite hungry, the guide ran over to a shop to buy us some “biscuits” rice cakes. They were tasty and hit the spot. 

We stopped off at the hospital to drop off the couple with the sick one. We started with five in our group and now we are three. Juniper, me and the “one”. 

Finally, we get lunch. It’s 2:30 and I am hungry.  Chicken, mushrooms and coconut milk soup. 

Pork curry - spicy

Egg rolls

rice and stir-fried vegetables 

It was a unique little cafe with lots of nooks and crannies for dining 

Our next stop is the Golden Triangle. We are taking a boat ride on the Mekong River. This is one of the things I was most excited about today. The Mekong is the border between Laos, Burma (Myanmar) and Thailand. Its headwaters are in the Himalayans and the three countries meet at the Golden Triangle. We were actually in Burma, Laos and Thailand all at once. The Golden Triangle played a huge part in the opium industry, which we learned about next. 

Across the river is Laos 

Here in Thailand is another big Buddha. I think she’s sitting in a boat. 

This is our boat 

And off we go 

Casino in Burma 

This island belongs to Laos and we are at the Golden Triangle. 

Our guide is right behind the driver and the “one” is right in front of me. 

Laos Border check 

The Chinese are investing heavily in Laos trying to turn it into another Macau. 

All new condos that took the place of all the trees and plants. 

Back in Thailand now. 

From here we walk over to the House of Opium. 

House of Opium is a museum that tells stories of opium in the Golden Triangle. Through beautiful antiques such as opium harvesting knives, scales, weights, pipes, mats and pillows, these tools represent the beliefs, cultures, traditions, and magnificent imagination of their Burmese, Shan, Chinese and tribal inventors in Thailand as well as the history of the region where the three countries meet. The museum reveals the biology of the opium poppy, the smoking procedure, trading procedure, and explores old murders and skirmishes which historians study today.

The Golden Triangle refers to the area where opium was densely grown in three countries: the Kingdom of Thailand, the Republic of the Union of Burma (Myanmar), and the Lao People's Democratic Republic. 

This mountainous area covers approximately 950,000 square kilometers all in the shape of a triangle. The center of this triangle lies at the borders of the three countries and where two rivers, the Mekong and the Ruak, meet. 

In Thailand, the tri-boundary area is at Ban Sop Ruak, Tambon Wiang, Amphoe Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai Province. In Myanmar, it is at Phat Heet, Wan Pong Sub-District, Tachileik District, Kengtung Province. And in Lao PDR, it is at Ban Kwan, Ton Phueng District, Bokeo Province 

In early times, gold was mainly used to trade opium. Opium, black and expensive, was known as "black gold." Due to the tremendous amount of gold passing through, the region was proclaimed "The Golden Triangle"

Opium poppy (botanical name: Papaver 

Somniferum is a species of plant in the Papa-veraceae family. The Latin word Somniferum comprises the word somni which means "sleep," and ferum which means "to cause." Thus, Somniferum means to cause a sleep. 

This poppy is an annual plant in the dicotyledon group, growing upright from 50 - 150 centimeters tall. The plant is comprised of ovate-oblong leaves and large, showy flowers of various colors, including white, pink, red, and purple, as well as those in dual combinations. The pods from purple poppies yield the strongest narcotic latex. Thus, the purple poppies are normally used by hill tribes as religious offerings and as medicine. An opium plant normally yields 3 - 4 opium pods. 

Opium poppies grow well above 3,000 feet from sea level. Therefore, in Thailand, only the hill tribes grew opium.

Really like this carved map. 

Counterweights used to weigh the opium

Antique pipes 

Opium pillow

In 1951, the Communist Party of China (CPC) aggressively cracked down on opium, so the production of opium in China has been virtually nonexistent since then. As a result of the crackdown, Indochina and the Golden Triangle region increased their production of opium to meet global demand. 

In Laos, the French raised money by supporting the Hmong hill tribes to produce opium and then imposed tariffs to finance a war against Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, who were fighting for their independence from France 

Meanwhile, Burma was struggling to claim independence from England, while many ethnic armed groups in the country, such as the Shan and the Wa, were also fighting for their own autonomy from Burma. Encouraged by England, these insurgent groups. relied on opium cultivation and drug trafficking as a source of revenue. 

When the United States was fighting the Cold War against the Soviet Union and the CCP, the CIA secretly supported opium and heroin traffickers, such as the National Liberation Front of Corsica and the Anti-Communist Kuomintang's (KMT) 93rd Division. 

As a result of regional conflicts and international influence, every mountain in northern Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar was in full bloom with opium poppy fields during this period.

We have one final stop before heading back to Chiang Mai, an ancient temple in complete contrast to the modern one we saw earlier, much of it in ruins. 

These are teak trees. 

The gold fabric around the bottom of the pagoda is to pay honor and respect to Buddha. 

We were supposed to hit the gong three times for happiness or good luck or something.

A little bit of a sunset 

 It’s a 4 hour drive back to Chiang Mai. We stopped back by the hospital to pick up our other two. They gave her some anti nausea medicine and fluids. I hope she feels better soon. 

Two hours into the drive, we stop for coffee. It’s now 7:30 pm so a little late but the guide wanted to buy us all a drink. I got some orange juice.  

And the floor toilet - yay!

Juniper got an iced coconut matcha latte 

Only two more hours to go. We are a good 1 1/2 hours late due to the many extra stops, the two hospital detours and the “one”. Why is there always “one” in a group? 

Israel's strength and Consolation, hope of all the earth Thou art

I imagine if we had a glimpse into the desperation the Israelites may have felt when they were led away from the land into captivity with the temple destroyed and their walls torn down—we would see extreme pain and remorse for their sin.

For decades, they cried out to God as they longed for restoration. They toiled in foreign soil, grieving the desolation of their lives and homes—the consequence of their rebellion against God. And Israel cried out to Him and remembered God’s covenant promises. (Ex 2:22-25)

And the Lord answered Israel. He proclaimed to His people that their time of hard service (consequences) were completed (Isaiah 40:1–2). The prophet called for the nation to rejoice and shout for joy at God’s comfort and compassion (Isaiah 49:13). God strengthened them and bound their broken hearts (Isaiah 61:1–3).

I think Israel’s story is much like our own. I wonder how much of our pain and suffering results from our own poor choices. We know the right thing to do, but we rebel against the prodding of the Spirit and the truth of Scripture. The destruction in our relationships—even in our hearts—leaves us desolate in spirit. But there is hope for us, just like there was hope for Israel. When we know we need God, we are called “blessed” (Matthew 5:3–10). Sometimes the pain of our sin becomes the tool of leading us back toward righteousness.

After being immersed in Buddhism over the last few days, I can say for certain that our hope in Jesus Christ is different than any hope this world can offer us. It’s not a mere wish left up to chance that may or may not happen. Oh no — this hope is rooted. This hope is trustworthy. Praise Him! Praise Him!